Mengubah karakter T-Rex 600
Posted: 11 Aug 2012, 01:46
Berikut ini adalah modifikasi kecil untuk merubah karakter T-Rex 600 yang ganas untuk lebih ' jinak'.
Silahkan dibuka kamus bahasa Inggrisnya agar lebih memahami apa yang dimaksud oleh si penulis. Semoga dapat memberikan pencerahan bagi kita semua, terutama bagi yang gemar bermanuver jinak dengan T-Rex 600 ALIGN
I've seen a number of Trex 600s, both electric and nitro, used in some contests. They actually do pretty well, with a few items taken care of in the setup. These items are actually pretty common among most of the helis you listed here, among others.
Trick one: Servos - Use the smallest servo arm that will allow you a total pitch range of -10 thru +12, at least, on a CCPM machine. For a mechanical mix model, use the smallest servo arms which will allow at least 100% end points, and bring the swashplate to full deflection without binding at the corners. The idea is to use the entire range of motion of the servo in order to maximize resolution. To do this, the servo must move as much as possible for a given input. Given this technique, you should use servos around 0.18 speed or better, but have at least 70 oz of torque. There is no sense in using high resolution servos with the end points set at 50% because you put 2 inch arms on them.
Trick two: Dampers - Install the softest dampers available for your model, and experiment with shims to tighten it up as needed. Some of the models on the market have pretty hard dampers now, and lower head speeds used in hovering maneuvers will induce a wobble, or mast bumping. Soft dampers also allow Delta to do its job, and helps absorb wind gusts into the rotor system.
Trick three: Flybar weight - I remember back in the '06 Nats, Nick Maxwell used at least three clamp on 20g weights on each end of his T-600E flybar. He didn't want to change anything else on his model, so was relying on heavily weighting his flybar to make the model behave in hover. It seemed to work pretty well for him, but he's also a stellar pilot. Your mileage may vary. Together with these other tips, adding weights to your flybar will increase the gyroscopic stability of your rotor system, helping both in winds and fast forward flight. Weights are added to taste, so get a few sets and experiment. As for the paddles, use the stock paddles with all weights installed. If your machine comes with light, unweighted paddles, you can fit paddles from other machines. Raptor 50 or Hirobo EVO 50 stock paddles are good choices, as are Kyosho 50 paddles.
Trick four: Blades - The blades are where the rubber meets the road, so to speak. Here, you want blades that are symmetrical, have decent weight, and are well balanced chord wise. A blade with an aft center of gravity will bite and fly aggressively. A trick to see if a blade would be good for contest flying is to do this: Find a hex driver that fits easily through the blade bolt hole. Tie a washer to a piece or string or thread a bit longer than the blade, and tie the string to the driver. Then, measure the distance of the blade bolt hole from the leading edge. Towards the end of the blade, make a mark an equal distance from the leading edge. Next, insert the driver through the blade bolt hole, and let the blade and string hang together. Look at the relationship of the mark and the string at the end of the blade. If the mark is more than 2-3mm ahead of the string, this indicates an aggressive blade, as the blade will lead in the grip when under load. Alternately, if the string and mark line up, or the mark lies behind the string as it hangs, you have a dynamically stable or neutral blade. I have found Radix 600 blades to be great for all-around flying, and auto very well. Rotor Tech makes some 610 FAI blades that should also be very nice flying.
Trick five: Pitch curves - Pitch curves are all about how a helicopter feels and performs. Most 3D setups have identical curves for each flight mode, all centered around 0 degrees. In my contest models, I still follow the basic rule of 90s at 0 degrees when doing the initial setup; however I have different pitch curves for hovering and aerobatics. For hovering, a 1/2 stick hover really affords you the stick resolution and precision needed to maintain altitude without bobbing up and down. If you are used to 3/4 stick hovering, it will feel odd at first, but the idea is to open up the range of motion on the collective stick, where 3/4 stick hovering doubles the stick sensitivity. This makes it more difficult to control the model's altitudes in hover, especially when the wind is blowing. Most modern radios have a condition delay which slows the transition between pitch curves, so that when switching from hovering flight modes to aerobatics modes, the model drop is less pronounced. Generally, you don't switch into aerobatics flight modes until you have started your climb out and have the collective stick at the top. In this case, the transition is transparent. As you probably assumed already, we generally run a -10/0/+10 or similar pitch curve in aerobatics modes, with 0 at center stick. This is much like a 3D setup. This allows you to easily find 0 degrees in vertical lines for stalls or push-overs. It also makes rolls feel more linear on collective.
So, these are five things you can do with ANY helicopter setup. These globally consistent items are easy to do, and rarely cost anything more than time to complete.
Hope this helps,
Erich
sumber dari http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=102496&page=2
Silahkan dibuka kamus bahasa Inggrisnya agar lebih memahami apa yang dimaksud oleh si penulis. Semoga dapat memberikan pencerahan bagi kita semua, terutama bagi yang gemar bermanuver jinak dengan T-Rex 600 ALIGN
I've seen a number of Trex 600s, both electric and nitro, used in some contests. They actually do pretty well, with a few items taken care of in the setup. These items are actually pretty common among most of the helis you listed here, among others.
Trick one: Servos - Use the smallest servo arm that will allow you a total pitch range of -10 thru +12, at least, on a CCPM machine. For a mechanical mix model, use the smallest servo arms which will allow at least 100% end points, and bring the swashplate to full deflection without binding at the corners. The idea is to use the entire range of motion of the servo in order to maximize resolution. To do this, the servo must move as much as possible for a given input. Given this technique, you should use servos around 0.18 speed or better, but have at least 70 oz of torque. There is no sense in using high resolution servos with the end points set at 50% because you put 2 inch arms on them.
Trick two: Dampers - Install the softest dampers available for your model, and experiment with shims to tighten it up as needed. Some of the models on the market have pretty hard dampers now, and lower head speeds used in hovering maneuvers will induce a wobble, or mast bumping. Soft dampers also allow Delta to do its job, and helps absorb wind gusts into the rotor system.
Trick three: Flybar weight - I remember back in the '06 Nats, Nick Maxwell used at least three clamp on 20g weights on each end of his T-600E flybar. He didn't want to change anything else on his model, so was relying on heavily weighting his flybar to make the model behave in hover. It seemed to work pretty well for him, but he's also a stellar pilot. Your mileage may vary. Together with these other tips, adding weights to your flybar will increase the gyroscopic stability of your rotor system, helping both in winds and fast forward flight. Weights are added to taste, so get a few sets and experiment. As for the paddles, use the stock paddles with all weights installed. If your machine comes with light, unweighted paddles, you can fit paddles from other machines. Raptor 50 or Hirobo EVO 50 stock paddles are good choices, as are Kyosho 50 paddles.
Trick four: Blades - The blades are where the rubber meets the road, so to speak. Here, you want blades that are symmetrical, have decent weight, and are well balanced chord wise. A blade with an aft center of gravity will bite and fly aggressively. A trick to see if a blade would be good for contest flying is to do this: Find a hex driver that fits easily through the blade bolt hole. Tie a washer to a piece or string or thread a bit longer than the blade, and tie the string to the driver. Then, measure the distance of the blade bolt hole from the leading edge. Towards the end of the blade, make a mark an equal distance from the leading edge. Next, insert the driver through the blade bolt hole, and let the blade and string hang together. Look at the relationship of the mark and the string at the end of the blade. If the mark is more than 2-3mm ahead of the string, this indicates an aggressive blade, as the blade will lead in the grip when under load. Alternately, if the string and mark line up, or the mark lies behind the string as it hangs, you have a dynamically stable or neutral blade. I have found Radix 600 blades to be great for all-around flying, and auto very well. Rotor Tech makes some 610 FAI blades that should also be very nice flying.
Trick five: Pitch curves - Pitch curves are all about how a helicopter feels and performs. Most 3D setups have identical curves for each flight mode, all centered around 0 degrees. In my contest models, I still follow the basic rule of 90s at 0 degrees when doing the initial setup; however I have different pitch curves for hovering and aerobatics. For hovering, a 1/2 stick hover really affords you the stick resolution and precision needed to maintain altitude without bobbing up and down. If you are used to 3/4 stick hovering, it will feel odd at first, but the idea is to open up the range of motion on the collective stick, where 3/4 stick hovering doubles the stick sensitivity. This makes it more difficult to control the model's altitudes in hover, especially when the wind is blowing. Most modern radios have a condition delay which slows the transition between pitch curves, so that when switching from hovering flight modes to aerobatics modes, the model drop is less pronounced. Generally, you don't switch into aerobatics flight modes until you have started your climb out and have the collective stick at the top. In this case, the transition is transparent. As you probably assumed already, we generally run a -10/0/+10 or similar pitch curve in aerobatics modes, with 0 at center stick. This is much like a 3D setup. This allows you to easily find 0 degrees in vertical lines for stalls or push-overs. It also makes rolls feel more linear on collective.
So, these are five things you can do with ANY helicopter setup. These globally consistent items are easy to do, and rarely cost anything more than time to complete.
Hope this helps,
Erich
sumber dari http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=102496&page=2
